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Tony's EPIC Road Trips Across Europe Central Spain
Central Spain
Avila – San Lorenzo - Segovia – Palencia – Burgos – Fromista - Leon –
Zamora – Salamanca – Caceres – Merida – Trujillo – Toledo – Aranjuez – Cuenca –
Alarcon – Alcala del Jucar – Elda – Elche – Denia – Valencia
Text and Photos: Tony Steurer
Three Weeks. 2900 km
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Tony is an ultra-experienced traveller who has been to over 110 countries. Having lived in Kuala Lumpur for many years, he is currently based in Munich.
This tour, taken in 2021, dives deep into Spain’s historical heart. The province of Castilla-Leon alone inhabits 60 % of all Spanish major heritage and cultural sites. UNESCO sites come thick and fast (marked with an * throughout the text). I encountered few international tourists during this tour, mostly along the Camino Santiago pilgrimage path. They get to enjoy a truly mesmerising plethora of historical culture and architecture.
Castilla is Spain’s - and in fact Europe’s - biggest province, thinly populated by only 2,5 million people. The landscape consists of high plains, numerous mountain chains and plateaus, forests, and canyons. The economy is mostly agricultural, hardly any industrial production. Not many people speak English. After landing at Madrid-Barajas, we pick up a rental for the next 3+ weeks and drive north to Avila, whose old town has a complete 2.5 km long city wall (*) with lots of towers. Spending the night in an old palace converted into a hotel. Very atmospheric start.
Castilla is Spain’s - and in fact Europe’s - biggest province, thinly populated by only 2,5 million people. The landscape consists of high plains, numerous mountain chains and plateaus, forests, and canyons. The economy is mostly agricultural, hardly any industrial production. Not many people speak English. After landing at Madrid-Barajas, we pick up a rental for the next 3+ weeks and drive north to Avila, whose old town has a complete 2.5 km long city wall (*) with lots of towers. Spending the night in an old palace converted into a hotel. Very atmospheric start.
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Avila
A half day excursion over mountain roads into the Sierra de Guadarrama leads to the huge monastery complex of Escorial y Real Sitio de San Lorenzo*, founded by King Philip II. The architectural style is characterised by strict lines and hardly any decorative elements. Visit of cathedral, cloisters, numerous stately rooms, and the famed burial chamber of kings. The town of San Lorenzo is a charming place located on a mountain slope with little squares full of cafés and bars. Next stop is another summer palace of kings, Real Sitio de San Ildefonso. Huge Lebanese cedars and Sequoia trees in the park craftily complemented by lakes, figurines, and water games.
Alcazar Segovia
Segovia*, home to a truly massive Roman aqueduct, spectacular setting, and an Alcazar (fortress) from the 12th century that sits precariously atop steep rocks with moat and towers. If you ever wondered what inspired some of Walt Disney’s works, look no further. Inside I find armouries, huge halls with original wooden ceilings and a full-on take of royal life in medieval times. After a day out in the hot sun, the local Estrella Galicia beer is an excellent companion, with prices varying considerably during the tour. Nearby Coca (sic!) is another fairy-tale fortress with massive walls, surrounded by a moat.
Palencia is a somewhat nondescript town with a large cathedral and a pleasant river setting. Birthplace of one of the most famous Spanish sculptors, Victorio Macho; on a hill outside the city, his grave is topped by one of the largest Jesus statues in the world.
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Coca
Ancient Roman bridge on the way to Burgos, still in use today. Atop the town sits a ruined fortress providing sweeping views. Tourist focal point is the cathedral*. As in other Spanish cathedrals it houses a large stone-built block in the middle. Surrounding the block and in the numerous side wings one finds an astonishing variety of architectural features that will stun even nonbelievers. The choir stalls are some of the best and most intricate you will ever see. Above them organ pipes are jutting out. Being along the Camino Santiago, Burgos hosts a fair number of pilgrims. Very lively old city.
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Inside Burgos Cathedral
Nearby Fromista is another fixture for pilgrims. Three old churches and a set of guesthouses provide relief and shelter after a hot day on the plains. I drive on to Leon, the former capital during Medieval times. Picturesque old town, with the highlight being the absolutely stunning and massive Cathedral Santa Maria from the 13th century. The nearby Romanic San Isidoro Basilica (12th century) is a royal burial site and has amazing colourful frescoes. Narrow alleys, lots of bars and restaurants on beautiful squares; the city is a mainstay on the pilgrim route, marking almost the halfway point between France and Santiago de Compostela.
Zamora
Driving south we come across the remote Monastery Santa Maria de Moreruela which unfortunately is now a private property. Zamora has a remarkable old bridge over the River Duero, a citadel, and a Romanic cathedral with attached museum. I watch a procession of ’Gigantes’, a local tradition where people on stilts and in historic costumes walk through the historic centre, much to the delight of locals.
Inside Salamanca Cathedral
One hour south lies Salamanca*, a city steeped in tradition as a university town and as the seat of the clergy. Cobblestoned streets, ancient walls and buildings, and the imposing sight of two cathedrals: the old one, completed in the 14th century, and connected to and intertwined with the new, even larger one which was finished 400 years later; both full of amazing architectural details. The Plaza Mayor is famed as one of the most beautiful squares in Europe. Another highlight is the Convento San Estobal (a beautiful complex with cloisters and yet another large church). A massive Roman bridge which offers some of the best views of the old city. We check out the art nouveau style market hall. Mouth-watering boccerones (baguettes) filled with the local jamon iberico. Busy nightlife as well. A place that ticks many of my boxes.
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Crossing into Extremadura province: most shops here stay closed between 2 and 6 pm. Any dinner attempt before 8 pm is futile except for fast food. After 8 pm though, the streets are full of people, and shops stay open till late. No graffiti here, no foreigners apart fromus, everyone is Spanish. A lot of people wear Covid masks, even when walking outside or driving their cars. The sheer number of empty shops and for sale signs on apartments suggest that the Corona crisis has hit this region very hard.
Avoiding toll roads is fairly easy, parking in the cities requires some patience, white markings mean it’s free, blue requires a ticket, green is for residents.
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Ciudad Encantada
The countryside turns increasingly dry, with white-washed houses resembling those in Andalusia: windmills crowning mountain ridges, solar farms, vineyards, corn fields, olive trees, flocks of sheep. Sometimes we drive for miles without seeing any villages. Wide open, clear blue skies in many places; seems to be the norm in October.Caceres*: small, narrow one-way streets, the old town on a hill. We came across a film crew taking advantage of the town’s perfect historical ambience, with equipment and props that hark back to medieval times spilling out from their trucks and into the streets. Hotels were all booked up, so we decided to spend the night in a small nearby village. Dinner in the only pub; the patron grants us Wi-Fi via his private mobile; nice gesture. Merida*, a former provincial capital of the Roman empire; many architectural reminders of the era: an impressive aqueduct, as well as a bridge which is still in use today; remains of the forum with a Diana temple in the centre, a large amphitheatre, and a Circus Maximus, used for gladiator fights. The splendid National Museum of Roman Art, designed by Rafael Moneo, houses a truly superb collection.
Trujillo
Spending the night in beautiful Trujillo in a converted Franciscan monastery. This town is the birthplace of Francisco Pizarro (1478 – 1541) who conquered Peru with less than 200 men and basically doomed the ancient civilisation of the Incas. Several palaces were built here with the loot that was subsequently transported back to his homeland. An Alcazar is crowning the top of the hill, with walls enclosing the whole place. Even the cemetery and the village water supply pool lie inside.
Guadalupe Monastery
Curvy mountain roads to Real Monasterio de Guadelupe*, a busy pilgrimage site that houses the Black Madonna of Guadeloupe. Crossing into Castilla-La Mancha province.
More mountain roads towards Toledo*, a picture perfect place with an old town situated high above the Tajo canyon. Arabic, Jewish, and Christian buildings dot the wall-enclosed city with multiple fortifications. A former imperial town, it is also known as the birthplace of El Greco. A huge rectangular Alcazar is quite different from all the others we’ve seen so far. We spent the night in a stylish old palace with 5 metre high walls: a fitting place given the town's medieval atmosphere. Very lively narrow alleys in town. We wander around the canyon and the old town for hours.
Toledo
On to Aranjuez*, established as a royal summer residence by king Philip II in 1560. The palace, huge squares and the baroque gardens are the main draw. Chinchon, a town known for its unique central square, a former bull fight arena, comes in very handy for a coffee break. Cuenca*: the old town sits atop steep rocks, with houses towering above the abyss. Steep, narrow walkways, deep canyons on all sides; yet another amazing place. The Serrania de Cuenca National Park starts on the outskirts of town. Flaming-yellow and red trees along a canyon drive, then onto a deserted high plain. The rocky ‘devils window’ offers views into the River Jucar Gorge; yet more winding mountain roads. At the heart of the national park we find the Ciudad Encantada (the enchanted city), which consists of rock formations as old as 90 million years: a fairy-tale place and with a little bit of imagination one can detect animals, shrooms and waves carved out by erosion. Some very good natural stone bridges as well.
Alarcon
Further west lies Alarcon, an isolated fortified place in a river bend. Alcala del Jucar is a village seemingly nested into a very steep rock wall. Our attempt to visit the Barranco de Gebas between Elda and Murcia gets drowned by torrential rainfall. Streets are flooded, and it’s just too hazardous to climb down very muddy paths. Shame, but on the upside, this was the only rain we encountered during the entire 3-week tour.
Alcala del Jucar
Elche* is home to Europe’s largest date palm forests. Passing the impressive high-rise skyline of Benidorm, we then spent two days in a resort in Denia which has a huge yacht harbour and a good choice of international restaurants. Quite a change from the previous weeks, and modern life has us back in its grasp.
Opera House, Valencia
Valencia is the birthplace of Santiago Calatrava, creator of the masterpiece, the ‘City of Arts and Science’, a stunning ensemble of futuristic building on 35 hectares of land. It is a massive visitor draw. In the old city lies the silk exchange*, a palatial historic marketplace from the 14th century, and a fittingly glorious and impressive end to our journey.