Andy's EPIC Islands in Europe Orkney

Orkney - the Kickass Archipelago

Kirkwall - Stromness - Old Man of Hoy - Scapa Flow - Scara Brae - Ring of Brodgar - Brough of Birsay - Rousay
Don’t think of it as Scotland: just too many Vikings who had made their mark on this archipelago of 22,000 people and 70 islands (20 of them inhabited) off the north coast of Britain. Even the flag, chosen by public vote in 2007, has a distinctively Scandinavian style and looks very similar to its Norwegian counterpart, with an additional yellow line in the off-centred cross. This is more Viking than Celtic territory. Therefore, think of it as a windswept, starkly beautiful but not desolate, hilly but not mountainous place, of rolling fields, farmland, bays, and steep cliffs where incredible stories occurred over the last 5,500 years. No soft politics, rapprochement, or compromise. Orkney represents kick-ass history of the fiercest variety.
Marwick Head
Orkney Key facts. Population: 22,0000Prosperity: UK average; 10% above ScotlandAverage max temperature January: 6.6Average max temperature July: 18.3Average Rainfall (mm): January 124. July 61.Sunshine hours: January: 30. July: 138.
When to visit. It has to be June. Scottish children are still at school, the tourist season hasn’t fully kicked in yet, the wildflowers are in full bloom and the summer solstice gives you ample daylight hours. The sun does not really set until 10.30, and you can still read a book outside until close to midnight. Darkness descends for a couple of hours before sunrise at 4.00. Your inner clock will love it.
How to get there. Logan Air flies directly to Orkney’s capital Kirkwall from London Heathrow, Edinburgh, and Aberdeen. But the majority of visitors choose to settle on one of two ferry connections: The Pentland ferry from Gills Bay (very close to John O’Groats) to St. Margret’s Hope on Orkney’s South Ronaldsay island (70 minutes). NorthLink Ferries offers a connection from Scrapster (Thurso) to Stromness (90 minutes) with a scenic cruise past the Old Man of hour. Both trips cross the Pentland Straight where the mighty Atlantic squeezes through a narrow opening and meets the stormy North Sea. It could get rough. The same applies for the 6 hour crossing from Aberdeen to Kirkwall, also on NorthLink Ferries with an onward connection to Shetland. Make sure to pack those motion-sickness pills.
How to get around. Inter-island ferries.Most of the attractions listed in this post are on the main island of Orkney with two excursions to Hoy and Rousay. If you also want to explore the more northern isles, most people rely on the extensive inner-island ferry network offered by Orkney ferries. For the glamorously inclined types, Logan Air offers connections from its regional hub in Kirkwall with bases in North Ronaldsay, Papa Westray, Sanday, Stronsay and Westray. The network includes the world’s shortest scheduled flight between Papa Westray and Westray; a mere 1.9 miles with a flight time of one minute (now that’s one for your bucket list).
How to get around: CyclingThe Orkneys are a cyclist’s paradise (as long as the weather plays along). Admittedly, riding on the main island is not much fun, precarious even, when coaches and cars zoom past you on rather narrow roads. But the archipelago also has a number of low-population islets where car traffic is a rare occurrence. The northern isles of Westray, Sanday and North Ronaldsay hardly attract car tourism, yet have paved surfaces. The same applies to the inner isle of Rousay and especially Hoy. Better still, inter island ferries are well equipped to carry bikes. Hence, bringing your cycle along (or renting one on location) is a wonderful way of experiencing the sheer remoteness and natural beauty of the lesser visited parts of the archipelago.
Where to eat and where to stay: The greasy days of deep-fried Mars bars (deep-fried anything actually) have long been confined to the food bin of culinary history. You can eat very well on Orkney and three places truly stand out (and require prior reservations). In the centre of Kirkwall, you will come across the cool atmosphere of the Storehouse Restaurant located in a tastefully renovated building that used to be a printing press, as well as a place for curing herring and pork. Also in Kirkwall, right on the harbour front is the long-established Kirkwall Hotel which has been accommodating guests ever since 1890. It has a grand dining room, and the several fish platters will do wonders to your palate. Further afield, and with sweeping views over Scapa Flow is the Foveran. Apparently, British TV host Lorraine Kelly’s place of choice when holidaying in Orkney. If it’s good enough for Lorraine … As to accommodation, all three establishments also offer comfortable and stylish rooms, and represent excellent choices. But Air BnB also has a well-established network. We stayed in Birsay, in a place called Burnside Holiday House, which is run by by Marie Anne. The location was superb, pretty much right on the beach, and the cottage ticked all the right boxes. A true gem.
Highlight #1: Neolithic Orkney.Archaeologists are having a field day here (or come to think of it, several field years). The unearthed village of Scara Brae, the Ring of Brodgar and the Standing Stones of Stenness are indeed spectacular sites and are justifiably UNESCO World Heritage sites. At the Ness of Brodgar a team of archaeologists has built a very handy viewing platform overlooking an excavation site which has been carefully examined since 2004. And Scara Brae is arguably western Europe’s best preserved neolithic settlement. The collection of interconnected rooms was exposed in 1850 when a violent storm washed away a good chunk of the coastline. The nearby Ring of Brodgar is the third biggest stone circle in the UK after Stonehenge and Avebury. Maybe not as coherent as its southern cousins (or indeed as Callanish on Lewis) it is nonetheless mightily impressive with 36 of the original 60 stones still in place. And since you’re in the area, pop down the road for another five minutes to admire the Standing Stones of Stenness for a taste of worshipping life in 3,000 BC.
Brough of Birsay
Highlight #2: Brough of Birsay.The tiny hamlet of Birsay at the northern edge of Orkney mainland has a lot to offer. The focal point is the imposing ruin of the Earl’s Palace, which in the 16th century was the residence of Robert Stewart, the half-brother of Mary, Queen of Scots. Birsay lies in the middle of a magnificent, sweeping bay with stunning sunsets. But the biggest draw of the place is a little, tidal clump of rock offshore called the Brough of Birsay that is accessible by a natural causeway, two hours either side of low tide. A light house sits at the top of the islet and on your way towards it, you will pass the remains of Pictish and Norse settlements. Up until the 12th century, the Brough was the seat of the Viking rulers of the archipelago before power shifted irreversibly to Kirkwall. You will also encounter a variety of seabirds, and it shouldn’t be too difficult to spot the odd puffin, calmly watching proceedings.
Kirkwall
Highlight #3: Kirkwall.The capital of the Orkneys is a surprisingly busy place with a population of just under 8,000. Coming down the hill from St. Margret’s Hope you might see the odd cruise ship floating offshore, which temporarily doubles the town’s population. Over recent years, this form of tourism proved to be a very nice earner for islanders, as vessels are being serviced, and visitors are being ferried around the archipelago in taxis and coaches, accompanied by local tour guides, and catered for by local businesses. The impact of cruise tourism becomes very apparent when walking through the pleasant streets of Kirkwall’s pedestrianised area: lots of souvenir shops, cafes, and patisseries, but not that many restaurants or pubs, as the latter establishments might not get frequented by the cruisers who in the evening are back on board enjoying their dinner. But what really stands out in the capital is - quite literally - the massive St. Magnus Cathedral, also known as the ‘Light in the North’ and founded in 1137. You simply would not expect such a grand and formidable structure in this remote part of the British Isles. Once you have marvelled at the sheer scale you can just nip across the road to check out the instructive Orkney Museum. Just make sure that no cruise ship is in town, otherwise you most certainly will get bruised when touring the museum’s narrow corridors and compact rooms. But the displays shed light on what is a turbulent history. More importantly, you can check on whether I got my facts straight.
Rousay
Highlight #4: Rousay. When looking at a map, Orkney appear to be an isolated group of islands off the coast of one of the remotest part of Britain. Surely solitude and tranquillity beckon. Yet, when the cruise ships hit Kirkwall, even some islanders start to run for cover. To truly get away from your fellow humans, you can board an inner-island ferry to the outer, northern reaches of the archipelago. North Ronaldsay at the far north-eastern end is a 2 hour and 40 minute ferry ride from the capital, and indeed feels very, very remote. But closer to Orkney’s mainland, you might want to try compact Rousay. From Tingwall on the eastern shore it is a mere 30 minute hop over to the tiny hamlet of Brinian, from where you can hike or cycle the ‘Rousay lap’; a 13 mile loop along the island’s only road, which also is the track for the annual half marathon. Alternatively, you can hike up to Blotchie Fiold, Rousay’s highest elevation at 249 metres, with sweeping view across the nearby islets of Wyre, Egilsay and Eday, and on a clear day even Westray, Sanday and aforementioned North Ronaldsay. Ask a member of the ferry crew for directions. It’s practically impossible to get lost.
Cliff Walking, Isle of Hoy
Highlight #5: Old Man of Hoy.And if Rousay isn’t remote enough, you might want to try the Isle of Hoy; an isolated spot on the south-western reaches of Scapa Flow with a population of a mere 270. Apart from the wild and starkly beautiful scenery, the small outcrop is famous for one tourist magnet: the Old Man of Hoy, a sea stack on the western side of the islet that rises up to 450 feet. It is the most iconic image that the Orkneys have to offer. To visit this natural delight you can take the foot-passenger ferry from the pretty and compact harbour town of Stromness to the small collection of dwellings (a café, a pier and a couple of houses) that is referred to as Moaness. From there, walk the road ignoring any turnings until paved surface gives way to a track. After 90 minutes, you will reach the picturesque settlement of Rackwick, from where a well-trodden path leads you to the Old Man. All in all this hike of 22 km (out and back) to the ferry can be done in 6 hours. But that would be just too easy and above all would not pay proper respect to the island’s spectacular hills. When approaching Hoy on the ferry, you can clearly spot Ward Hill, at 470 m the highest elevation in all of Orkney. To the right of it is Cuilag Hill, equally steep but at 430 metres just that little bit shorter. ‘All Trails’ lists a hike up the latter. From the main (and only road) and 1 hour walk from the ferry, there is even a signpost leading you into scrubland, where you will surely lose your mobile phone signal. Head up towards the ridge, probably sometimes on all fours as the climb is on occasion as steep as 45 degrees. Once at or near the top, hike along the ridge in a north-westerly direction until the Old Man comes into view. You might even come across the remains of a Lockheed Hudson plane that for unknown reasons crashed into the hills in 1941. From the Old Man follow the path to Rackwick and back to the ferry. If you’re determined and in good physical shape, the whole very strenuous hike can be done in 7 to 8 hours.
On top of Cuilag Hill
Highlight #6: Scapa Flow Museum, Hoy.A trip to the Orkneys just isn’t complete without delving deeper into the islands’ military history and a visit to this award-winning museum comes highly recommended. There is an additional ferry link to Hoy (this time accessible for cars) from Houton on the mainland to Lyness with the museum being just a five minute walk from the ferry quay. Geeks will find plenty of military and technical equipment on display, but the museum also offers insightful background information on the social and cultural impact of the massive operations during the two world wars. Should you be able to bring a car (or bicycle) along, from the museum, it is only 12 miles along the island’s one narrow and winding road to Rackwick, from where you can hike the 8 miles (out and back) to the viewpoint for the Old Man (see Highlight #4). It is perfectly feasible to combine both attractions in one outing. But you need a mode of transportation, and should you require a local taxi, you might want to try Mr Clark on 01856-791315. Prior bookings are essential.
Highlight #7. Scapa Flow and the Italian Chapel. The name Scapa Flow derives from the old Norse word of ‘Skalpafloi’, which means ‘bay of the long isthmus’. And indeed, the bay is surrounded by a multitude of islands, which provides protection during the often stormy weather. In both world wars, Scapa Flow was a major naval base offering the British fleet easy access to the North Atlantic and the North Sea. On the eastern edge of Scapa Flow and not far from the ferry terminal at St. Margret’s Hope, you will come across the cute landmark of the Italian Chapel. During World War II, around 1,300 Italian soldiers were taken captive in North Africa and ended up in Orkney, with some 500 of them in Camp 60 on the previously uninhabited island of Lamb Holm. Bored out of their minds, the prisoners asked the authorities whether they could build a place of worship, so two Nissen Huts were placed behind one another and the craftsmen amongst the prison population put their skills to work: a decorative shrine was erected and fake tiles, as well as frescoes painted on the wall; all to a rather impressive effect. The Italian prison population, however, was also ordered to build the Churchill Barriers; a causeway that links Lamb Holm with Orkney’s mainland. At the start of the war, a German submarine had sneakily made its way into Scapa Flow by squeezing through this narrowest of gaps and so the prisoners were tasked with filling in this aquatic hole. This was a controversial violation of the Geneva conventions, which state that POWs should not be involved in the construction of military fortifications. The UK government however elegantly circumvented this legal stipulation by arguing that the causeway represented a piece of civil infrastructure.
Between Birsay and Kitchener Memorial
Highlight #8. Cliff Walking. Birsay to Kitchener Memorial9 km out and back, 250 m altitude, 3 hoursThe hike starts in the village of Birsay on the northern tip of the main island. Walk eastward, cross the bridge and hike along the water’s edge towards the highest visible elevation. Most likely you will not encounter too many fellow visitors but hundreds of rabbits and shrieking sea birds that are at ease in this dramatic landscape of juicy meadows, crushing waves and steep cliffs. Eventually a tower comes into view built by locals to commemorate the untimely passing of by Lord Kitchener in 1916, when his vessel exploded upon hitting a German mine.
Mull Head
Highlight #9. Mull Head. You have to head to the easternmost and windswept corner of Orkney mainland. Mull Head is not often included amongst the area’s highlights, but it is undoubtedly beautiful. Steep cliffs, clear blue waters, rock pools, beaches and verdant green fields filled with wildflowers, whilst seabirds are circling in the sky above you. The walk starts at the car park of the Mull Head Visitor Centre. If you take in the nearby Covenanters Memorial, the 10 km hike loops past Mull Head and the collapsed cave referred to as ‘the Gloup’. It should take no more than 3 hours.
Neolithic Vanguards:
It started out so well. Neo Stone-Age Orkney (no iron used back then) was a highly developed civilisation (see Highlight #1). At Scara Brae and at the ongoing dig at the Ness of Brodgar, archaeologists have uncovered a network of habitats that included a central fire pit, stone bedframes (to be filled with softer material such as hay), as well as rather fetching dressers used to display your possessions or your daughter’s swimming certificate. The same domestic set-up was also discovered at Stonehenge, and since the villages in Orkney predate those in southern England, this Orkney design – in what can only be described as a premodern version of the Ikea catalogue - must have spread across the British Isles. Cutting edge stuff by the Orcadian neoliths, before the Greeks had built their temples, and the Egyptians had constructed the pyramids. Yet, they could have chosen a less windy spot. And the short and dark days of winter might not have been the best for your average Flintstone’s mental health. But in 3500 BC, the temperature was just that little bit warmer for grain, vegetables, and fruits to thrive. Add to that pastureland for cattle and it is little wonder that Scara Brae and Brodgar lasted for 600 years. So how did it come to an end? Several theories, the most straightforward of which is climate change, rising sea levels and an eroding coastline that made existing dwellings uninhabitable, and the communities simply decided to move on. Also plausible might be the overuse of natural resources (think along the lines of the Easter Island stone statues which look impressive but used up all the timber for transport). But my favourite is that the bronze age was knocking on the door and homesteading with your own, non-shared cattle and fields had become more fashionable. You can just imagine the last communal supper. ‘Hey Hagar, never mind that your family keeps waking up the neighbours with their late-night deer-antler drumming. But your persistent burping at supper is just not on. We’re off.’
Scara Brae
Malign Vikings in the Middle Ages
In modern times, Orkney was originally a Viking, and not a Celtic and most certainly not an Anglo-Saxon settlement. The locals established strong trade links throughout the North Atlantic, though there wasn’t much interaction with Roman Britain. In the 9th century, the islands were integrated into the Kingdom of Norway and a heritage system was introduced that allowed even non-nobles to own property, with Birsay (see Highlight #2) as the archipelago’s focal point. And you assumed that Norsemen made their mark on history by pillaging great chunks of the northern hemisphere. Yet, based on the evidence in Orkney, history ought to hold Vikings in rather impressive, democratic (for its time) esteem.
Brough of Birsay
Fierce Vikings in the Middle Ages
But every now and then, the brutal part of the Vikings’ DNA revealed itself. Spare a prayer for poor Magnus Erlendson, who was the joint Earl of Orkney, a position he shared with his cousin Hakon. The year was 1117, and the two just couldn’t agree on how the islands ought to be governed. So, what today might be called a strategy meeting, was convened on the island of Egilsay. As was previously agreed, naïve Magnus arrived with two boats of his unarmed followers. Hakon however, showed up with eight boats, filled to the rafters with armed men. As soon as he stepped ashore, Hakon ordered his cook to filet Magnus’s skull, who just about managed to kneel, fold his hands and gaze towards the heavens before an axe sliced through his frontal lobe; enough to posthumously be declared a saint and to have a huge cathedral named in his honour (see Highlight #3).
Bay of Birsay
People? What people? The arrival of British Aristocracy
But then the Scots took over. King James III was livid when the promised dowry by the family of his bride, Margret of Denmark failed to materialize. At the time, Denmark ruled over Norway, so in 1472, James simply annexed the islands. From then on, locals could no longer own their land, as this was handed over to so called Lairds; members of noble families who were the supporting pillars of whichever monarch held the crown. Life took a distinctly sour turn as Orcadians now had to pay taxes, and even had to work part time on the Laird’s estate. A property-owning meritocracy was no longer and instead, the islanders were now subject to whatever the ruling aristocracy deemed appropriate. A particularly nasty example of this set up was Robert Stewart, Earl of Orkney and illegitimate son of King James V and his lover Euphemia Elphinstone, and also half-brother to Mary Queen of Scots, who in 1564 placed him in charge of the islands. This makes Robert quite literally a bastard. And he certainly lived up to this description. He forced locals to build him a grand palace in Birsay (see Highlight #2), and his approach to ruling the island can only be described as a tyranny, since he used islanders as slave labourers for various construction projects.
Earl's Palace, Birsay
Green and Unpleasant Land: Island Clearances and Crofting
The highland clearances from 1750 to 1860 also affected Orkney. Aristocratic landowners, often saddled with massive debt, gradually switched to large scale pastoral farming and the locals were – quite literally - in the way. So were the crofters, who struggled to carve out an existence due to over-crowding, oppressive rents, and taxes. Landowners often offered to pay for the passage to North America and the locals had little choice but to pack their meagre belongings and leave. In Orkney, many were forced to move to Canada, working in whaling or for the Hudson Bay Company. Many non-crofters, fed up with the arbitrary rule of the Laird system joined them. The general degree of mean-spiritedness must have brushed off the locals. Take the case of the Covenanters for instance. On a walk around Mull Head (see Highlight #9), you come across a memorial obelisk to this Presbyterian sect, who were sentenced to a one-way ticket to America. Most of them drowned in a fierce storm because the letter-of-the-law captain refused to unlock the deck where the prisoners were held. No mercy back in 1679. Or take Captain W Mackay, a recent immigrant to Orkney who in 1814 removed the Odin Stone which was part of the Ring of Stenness (see Highlight #1). The stone was pierced with a circular hole and was used by local couples to hold hands through the hole and whisper sweet nothings into each other’s ears. Not as romantic and Romeo and Juliet but certainly not far off. Mackay was livid that locals trampled on his farmland and disturbed his peace, so he smashed Odin to smithereens. The locals were so upset and furious that they burned Mackay’s house down: twice. Or take the case of James Leonard, crofter on the island of Rousay (see Highlight #4). Back in 1883, a Royal Commission was convened to ascertain the viability of the current system of tenant farming. Leonard gave evidence, demonstrating that the current levels of rent and tax would not allow for a sustainable operation. He was heralded in the local press for his bravery, but also for the accuracy of his account. On the next day, his landlord a certain Lt General Sir Frederick William Traill-Burroughs evicted him.
Ring of Brodgar
Stupid is – Stupid does. Wartime Orkney
Orkney gained notoriety as the fulcrum of Britain’s military history in the 20th century. In both world wars, Scapa Flow (see Highlights #6 and #7) represented one of the key bases of the British navy. During World War I, Lord Kitchener was the Secretary of State for War, whose image (with pointed fingers and impressive moustache) was used to encourage Brits to enlist in his Volunteer Army. In 1916 - and displaying a degree of arrogance and entitlement that even today does not seem uncommon amongst the British ruling establishment - he ignored repeated warnings about bad weather and sea mines and set sail from Orkney en route to Russia. After riding the waves for a mere 1.5 miles, his ship HMS Hampshire hit a German device, with Kitchener subsequently becoming the highest ranked British officer to be killed in the war. Scant consolation to the families of the 737 crew who went down with him. Forrest Gump’s catchphrase springs to mind.
Kitchener Memorial
At the end of the war and with an armistice agreed in November 1918, the German fleet was moved to Scapa Flow. In June 1919, and just before the signing of the Treaty of Versailles, the German commander Rear Admiral (what a title!) von Reuter assumed with some justification, that the entire fleet was about to be handed to the Allies. So he ordered the whole lot to be sunk. During the next years, all but seven of the 74 vessels were raised and scrapped in the largest salvage operation ever recorded. Those seven ships that have remained at the bottom of the (rather shallow) sea are the reason why Scapa Flow has become one of the world’s top diving destinations. On a clear day, you can still see the odd mast or hull sticking out from the water’s surface.
Scapa Flow
By 1939, technological advancements had turned Scapa Flow into a fortress. Yet, on the evening of October 13, Captain Günther Prien and his U-47 submarine managed to squeeze through the narrowest of openings to enter Scapa Flow through the Kirk Sound. To his utter disappointment, British intelligence had picked up on his daring plan and nearly all of the fleet had been moved to Scotland. All von Prien could find was the ancient, rusty, yet huge HMS Royal Oak which he proceeded to torpedo with all the anger that he could muster. The unfortunate episode prompted the British government to build the Churchill Barriers (see Highlight #6) which closed the gap between Lamb Holm and the Orkney mainland through which U-47 had sneaked through.
Italian Chapel
When writing about war and the impact of weapons, the sad story of William Walter Scarth and his untimely death springs to mind. Walter was the son of Colonel Henry William Scarth, the Laird of Skaill. The family’s residence was Laird House, arguably Orkney’s finest historical dwelling and right on top of the beach where Scara Brae was unearthed. The house is now a museum (well worth a visit) and the exhibition portrays poor William as not ‘academically gifted’ (and the mind wonders about the true sense of this euphemism). But he was a cracking sportsman and while at Eton excelled in cricket. In 1948, whilst on a summer holiday back at Skaill, he shot himself dead while getting used to his new rifle, with the consequence that upon the death of Colonel Henry, Skaill House passed to another branch of the family. Darwin might have approved.
Old Man of Hoy
Eggs, Oil and UK Exit: Orkney today
Matters are more peaceful, but not necessarily calmer these days. The post-war years brought a certain degree of prosperity, mainly based on growing agricultural profits from beef, fish and even eggs (with the islands being the top UK producer up until the 1960s). But soon, oil became the driving force of the local economy. In 1973, the Piper Oil Field was discovered, and a terminal built in Scapa Flow. It is currently being dismantled at a cost of 30 million£. Less oil and no more UK? When writing this post in July 2023, Orkney Council has embarked on a debate on whether to leave the United Kingdom (and with it Scotland) and consider joining Norway. History might just come full circle with the 1472 dowry coming back to its original owner. Council leader James Stockan argued that ‘we were part of the Norse Kingdom for much longer than we were part of the United Kingdom’. Now there’s a clever, kick-ass way of re-joining the EU’s Single Market Chapeau.
Fierce Humans – Vicious Birds:
Even some birds kick ass. The Brough of Birsay (see Highlight #2) is home to a colony of cute, cuddly-toy puffins, and the species is so docile and friendly that you could (but shouldn’t) crouch right up next to them, which is what the inhabitants of Outer Hebrides island St. Kilda did on a daily basis, since the bird was pretty much their sole source of protein. Contributing to their near extinction was the fact that they prefer to nest near the top edge of a cliff and thus within easy reach of humans. But at least the puffin’s fate was not as finite as that of the dodo, who was literally plucked from the face of the earth by hungry sea farers. Since we’re dangerously close to descending into bird-watching nerdiness, I ought to mention the Guillemot, who is often seen nesting right next to puffins; rather pretty with their shiny black feathers and white beaks. You will also notice the Oystercruncher. The name says it all, and getting a meal shouldn’t be too difficult with that fetching, orange-red, and pointy schnoz. But the real badass amongst Orkney’s bird population is the fierce Skua. It looks very similar to an ordinary seagull, but with a brown coat of feathers. The males go absolutely mental when it comes to protecting their eggs. It happened to us on our hike down from Cuilag (see Highlight #4), when we must have come just a little too close to a nest. Half a dozen Skuas began an almighty shriek and started circulating perilously close to our heads. We were lucky because on occasion, these birds are known to aim for your scalp which they whack with their claws. Let’s refer to it as the Orkney haircut.
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