Andy's
EPIC Adventures in Europe
Island Hopping in the Outer Hebrides
Island Hopping in the Outer Hebrides, Scotland 185 miles, 10 Causeways, 4 Ferries
Lewis - Harris - Berneray - North Uist - Benbecula - South Uist- Eriskay - Barra - Vatersay
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'At least it's not raining’, was the cheerful comment of an energetic septuagenarian, out on a morning stroll with his granddaughter. We had just traipsed for two hours through a howling wind with the moisture of a thick fog hitting us at a 90-degree angle. We were sopping wet. Welcome to the Outer Hebrides: Land of stupendous scenery and challenging weather conditions.
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The Outer Hebrides are a windswept, wild, sparsely populated, semi-circular chain of more than 70 islands off the West coast of Scotland. Also referred to as the Western Isles, the archipelago does not always feature prominently on the radar of many travellers, but pristine beaches, stunning mountain scenery and the remnants of a distinct and vibrant Gaelic culture might soon turn the islands into a must-see destination. Yet visitors have to be content with a fierce climate. Summer temperatures rarely reach 20 degrees, the winds can be excessive at times and cloud coverage, mist and rain are frequent. Come prepared: bracing the elements is part of the experience. Not that many tourists, which is one of the main attractions. But you certainly won’t have the place to yourself. Some hardy cyclists tackling the 185 mile Hebridean way (hats off), some motorhomes, the odd tour bus. We kept bumping into the same characters along the way: at the ferry terminal, in the supermarket, at the petrol station, or at the information centre of some attraction. It seems as if the majority of visitors did precisely what we had embarked upon: an island-hopping road trip.
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But first we had to get there. After our successful sojourn to the Canaries, I once more turned to my trusted travel companion Carlos. He didn’t need much convincing, unlike our respective families who feared their disposable annual income being compromised even further. We promised to do it on the cheap and when confronted with the prospect of driving 600 miles north, embarking on potentially stormy ferry crossings and hiking through boggy wetland, we could sense a certain relief that our loved ones were once more not part of the plan.
Carlos suggested a location for our first overnight stop. During lockdown he had become a fan of bookstore proprietor Shaun Bythell’s podcast, had read his hilarious autobiographical stories and started to follow him on Facebook. That’s why we found ourselves in Wigtown, Scotland’s ‘national book town’ and somewhat conveniently located along the way in the underpopulated western part of the Scottish Lowlands about 2 hours south of Glasgow. ‘Town’ is a slightly ambitious description, as the place spreads around a market square lined with a couple of bookstores, cafes, and art galleries: pleasant and pretty, but certainly not on the tourist trail just yet. Of course, being Shaun’s #1 fan, Carlos dragged me into his bookshop. We got lost in some rather obscure sections, when a chirpy lady handling the tills shouted, ‘I need some help Shaun’. Lo and behold, the man himself appeared, inquired about the origin of our funny accents, and happily engaged in some banter. Hey, we even got him to pose in front of his shop and promised to send a postcard once we made it to the Isles. Carlos was very happy.
Carlos suggested a location for our first overnight stop. During lockdown he had become a fan of bookstore proprietor Shaun Bythell’s podcast, had read his hilarious autobiographical stories and started to follow him on Facebook. That’s why we found ourselves in Wigtown, Scotland’s ‘national book town’ and somewhat conveniently located along the way in the underpopulated western part of the Scottish Lowlands about 2 hours south of Glasgow. ‘Town’ is a slightly ambitious description, as the place spreads around a market square lined with a couple of bookstores, cafes, and art galleries: pleasant and pretty, but certainly not on the tourist trail just yet. Of course, being Shaun’s #1 fan, Carlos dragged me into his bookshop. We got lost in some rather obscure sections, when a chirpy lady handling the tills shouted, ‘I need some help Shaun’. Lo and behold, the man himself appeared, inquired about the origin of our funny accents, and happily engaged in some banter. Hey, we even got him to pose in front of his shop and promised to send a postcard once we made it to the Isles. Carlos was very happy.
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The next day finally onto our first ferry from Mallaig to Lochboisdale on South Uist. The clouds started to lift, and we drove straight to the tiny islet of Eriskay and parked in front of the SS Politician pub, conveniently located right next to the community hall. Inside, a couple of picture frames tell the story of the cargo ship of the same name which in 1941 and loaded with thousands of cases of whisky ran aground pretty much in front of the pub (at low tide you can just about spot the remnants of the vessel). In a wonderful show of defiance, locals held on to and hid an impressive 24,000 cases to the ultimately powerless displeasure of His Majesty’s custom office. Compton MacKenzie wrote up the story in a book called Whiskey Galore! which Ealing Film Studios subsequently turned into a successful movie.
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Eriskay
But Eriskay’s mark on history doesn’t stop there. Just a short walk from the pub is the beach where in 1745 Bonnie Prince Charlie first set foot on Scottish soil in his unsuccessful attempt to reclaim the crown of Britain on behalf of his father James Stuart. No real town on the island, just the odd settlement with small clusters of houses. But starkly beautiful even in a gale-force wind. We hiked up to the island’s highest peak (Beinn Skiathon; a modest 200m) with wonderful views across a narrow straight to Barra. An excellent introduction to the Hebrides.
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Garrynamonie Machair Beach, South Uist
Back across the causeway and along South Uist, Benbecula, and onto North Uist. On the western side, miles of white-sand beaches, the most memorable one probably being Garrynamonie Machair on the southern fringe. In the east, the landscape is often flat and featureless with lochs and marshes piercing the land and making agriculture a near impossibility. Mercifully, the gloomy scenery is broken up by three hills (Beinn Mhor, Choradail and Hecla) rising up to 600 metres. But also some truly ugly houses from the ‘piss off school of architecture’. Blame the military which has a sizeable presence here, particularly in and around the village of Balivanich where our Air BnB is located in a settlement that could pass for an inner city council estate. After all this nature, the place feels bizarre. At least the apartment was spacious and comfortable.
The day had one more highlight in store. A drive at sunset (10.28 pm in the first week of July, to be precise) and walk around Berneray – another tiny islet with farms, sheep, hidden coves, and stupendous views eastwards towards the Isle of Skye and north towards Harris. No one else on the road. Everyone was tucked up for the night.
The day had one more highlight in store. A drive at sunset (10.28 pm in the first week of July, to be precise) and walk around Berneray – another tiny islet with farms, sheep, hidden coves, and stupendous views eastwards towards the Isle of Skye and north towards Harris. No one else on the road. Everyone was tucked up for the night.
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Berneray
We were greeted for once with sunshine and headed back south to Eriskay with the intention of taking the short ferry hop to Barra. We couldn’t resist another stop at Garrynamonie Machair Beach: beautiful light, sparkling sea, white and soft sand; no one around bar a couple of locals donning wet suits and out for a bracing morning swim. Upon arrival at the ferry we were told that all return tickets for the day had been sold already. No choice but to leave the car behind, and hope that Barra’s bus network offers a reliable mode of transport. It did. And not only that. The 90 minute tour around the island is an excellent way to get a glimpse of Barra, including the marvellous airport with a beach landing strip – apparently the only one of its kind in the world to offer scheduled flights.
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Barra Airport
The chatty bus driver dropped us off at Castlebay and pointed up towards a hill called Heaval which rises steeply above the village to a height of 385 metres. He told us about the annual race up and down the mountain with the record standing at an impossibly short 28 minutes. ‘You know what to do’, was his cheery remark before he set off. At the top we realised that our time was out by a factor of six but along the way we encountered stunning 360 degree views. We found a spot that sheltered us from the wind and just sat there in silence, lost in our thoughts as time became immaterial, admiring the views, and mesmerised by its beauty. That doesn’t happen very often. It was only when the sun disappeared behind a bank of clouds when we realised that we must have stared into the distance for an hour or so. The rain was coming in, so we headed back down to Castlebay, stopped for coffee, and managed to find, write, and mail a postcard to Shaun before our bus driver deposited us at the ferry terminal.
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Castlebay, Barra
Barra might just be the best island of the lot, and if you chose just one location on your trip to the Hebrides this might be it. The direct air and ferry links to the mainland, as well as the pretty town of Castlebay with a hotel, some shops and pubs, and a couple of restaurants certainly support this line of reasoning. This is a great place for any writer, painter or photographer who seeks inspiration from a cinemascopic landscape and constantly changing light and cloud formations. Atmospheric, awesome, beautiful. We loved it, and so do the locals; friendly, chilled, and always happy to make time for a chat. And a quirky oddity too: At the harbour quay in Castlebay you will come across a restaurant run by a family with Indian roots, intend on spicing up the lives of natives and visitors. Dinner is served in three sittings. At 4.00 (!), 6.00 and 8.00. Once again, everyone’s tucked up in bed nice and early.
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Borve, Harris
Surely, the Hebrides couldn’t deliver two sunny days in a row, and clouds, rain and strong winds descended on us once more. Time to take the longest inner-island ferry from Berneray to Leverburgh on Harris. We arrived at the ferry terminal with time to spare and headed for the small but highly educational Taig Chearsabhagh Museum and Arts Centre in Lochmaddy which filled our gaping knowledge holes on Gaelic musicians, painters, and writers. After a surprisingly smooth crossing to Harris the rain stopped momentarily, and we headed straight to the expansive beach at Luskentyre. At low tide, almost the entire bay, which measures about 2 by 3 miles, is covered in sand. The water is azure-blue, the sand a brilliant white and if the sun comes out the place could easily be mistaken for a spot somewhere in the Caribbean. That is until you step out of the car to brace the howling wind. We southern softies went for a beach hike and came back battered and exhausted by the force of nature.
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Luskentyre Beach, Harris
Our stop for the night was in Stornoway, all the way across the isles of Harris and Lewis. Locals insist on these two isles being referred to as separate entities, although in geographical terms there are one land mass, divided by a broad hill range topped by Clisham mountain at just under 800 m. Lewis in the north is the flatter of the two with a landscape dominated by grassland and moors. Southerly Harris has the better beaches and a scenery that feels even more isolated and barren.
Harris felt much more developed than the southern islands of the archipelago. Hardly any single-file tracks which are so common on Uist. The houses seem bigger, smarter, and newer. And trees! We haven’t seen those in a while. A quick stop in Talbert: new public buildings including a school, a health centre, and a gym. Some commerce, shops, supermarkets, pubs, and restaurants grouped next to the ferry terminal which whisks you to the Isle of Skye in under two hours.
Harris felt much more developed than the southern islands of the archipelago. Hardly any single-file tracks which are so common on Uist. The houses seem bigger, smarter, and newer. And trees! We haven’t seen those in a while. A quick stop in Talbert: new public buildings including a school, a health centre, and a gym. Some commerce, shops, supermarkets, pubs, and restaurants grouped next to the ferry terminal which whisks you to the Isle of Skye in under two hours.
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Callanish Stone Circles, Lewis
A marvellous stop at the Callanish Stones and a prominent contender for most mythical site in the British Isles (take that Stonehenge). The nearby new museum charts the story of a neolithic people who lived in the area some 5,000 years ago and who somehow managed to hoist 54 stone columns, some of them over 10 feet tall, into an orderly shape of a cross. A devoted and hardy bunch as the site was – of course – exposed to the elements, but at least the believers must have been inspired by glorious and sweeping views across a desolate yet starkly beautiful landscape. Lurking in the distance, you can just about see a mountain range, which with a little imagination is in the shape of a woman (presumably a goddess) lying on her side.
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Postman's Walk, Harris
A welcoming respite from the winds in our Air BnB apartment in Stornoway overlooking the pretty yacht harbour and Lews Castle built in the 1840s by Sir James Matheson, who at one stage had purchased the whole island with a fortune made in the opium trade (and they say drugs are bad for you). Stornoway harbour was the site of a heart breaking, almost cynical tragedy. On New Year’s Day in 1919, the admiralty yacht HMY Lolaire (‘eagle’ in Gaelic) was transporting sailors, who had just survived the ordeals of World War I back home to the Hebrides. Just one mile away from the safety of the harbour, the overcrowded vessel hit some rocks and sank. 201 out of the 289 men on board drowned, thus wiping out almost the entire young male population of Lewis.
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Postman's Walk, Harris
We woke up the next morning, desperately hoping for fine weather, as we had planned to tackle one of the highlights of the Hebrides: The Postman’s Walk: Must be a stunning place. All the ingredients of a fabulous hike are there: a sense of solitude, bird life, mountain tracks with steep cliffs, cascading waterfalls, the smell of nature and the sea. And if you can see your surroundings even better. But once more we encountered a howling wind, which today was accompanied by a thick, moisture-filled mist lashing at us in a horizontal fashion. It felt like hiking through a car wash. So we just had to believe the local hikers, who maintained that on a clear day, the scenery is indeed very beautiful. Up and down over three hills with a total altitude of 750 m along a well-trodden path, past waterfalls, and hidden coves. Our starting point was Rhenigigdale; the UK’s last postal community to be linked by a road some 30 years ago. Hence the name Postman’s Walk in honour of the poor chaps who had to do this hike three times a week from Tarbert. Things have certainly changed in the Western Isles. Upon returning to our base in Stornoway, we found out that bookseller Shaun had posted on his Facebook page: our postcard had arrived. 24 hours from Barra to Wigtown. Impressive!
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Uig Sands, Lewis
The next day, the weather for once was on our side: 15 Celsius and no rain – time to get out shorts and sunhats. We drove westward for 35 miles through an indented landscape of eerily quiet moors, cliffs, bays, and inlets with the odd craggy hill rising up on either side of an occasionally single-track road. And then we hit stupendous Uig Sands. The word Uig comes from the Norse word for ‘bay’, and indeed this is not just a sandy strip along the sea but a vast landscape of sand, green hills, and rugged mountains.
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Great Bernera
On our way back to Stornoway we stopped at the islet of Great Bernera which is connected to Lewis by a causeway. The Hebridean tourist authority recommends a circular hike lasting 4-5 hours, and so we parked the car at the Community Centre in Breacleit and scrambled over rocks and through a boggy landscape until we came to Bosta Beach, where in 1993, a violent storm had unearthed five Iron Age houses (that’s 600 to 800 AD to you and me). We stepped into the re-creation of one of those houses staffed by a spirited tour guide who spends her working day lecturing tourists in near-complete darkness.
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Butt of Lewis
Our last evening on the Hebrides had arrived. Guess what? The sun made a short and sharp appearance; enough to tempt us into driving across the island to its northernmost point which is imaginatively referred to as the ‘Butt of Lewis’; apparently the windiest spot in the British Isles. At last, we hadn’t had enough of those just yet. For nearly 40 miles we drove through a deserted, featureless landscape of boggy marshlands. Very spooky and the perfect inspiration for Hebridean crime writer Peter May who placed some of his 15 novels in the area around the small town (just a village really) of Ness. At the Butt we got out of the car and – no wind! A mighty bird colony takes advantage of inaccessibly steep cliffs, and a picturesque lighthouse adds to the film-quality scenery. On the way back we were tempted by a turn off to what must be one of the most northerly ten pin bowling alleys (We checked: Orkney has one. Shetland doesn’t) but decided to rush home for the 10 o-clock news since a certain prime minister had just announced his resignation. With Westminster pondering over the absences of trust, decency, and humility, we decided that bowling certainly would have been the more uplifting choice.
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The early morning ferry from Stornoway to Ullapool took two hours and by lunchtime the temperature had climbed by ten degrees. A heatwave had arrived in mainland Scotland, and we headed for Stirling and its magnificent castle for our last overnight stop before embarking on the final leg back down to London. The town was out and about, enjoying the balmy weather and as is custom in these parts celebrating the occasion with a drink or two. So did we, in a nice al fresco setting in the old town when an animated lady in her late 50s kept informing us and the other patrons that she had bought her lovely clothes (a little too revealing for my liking) in Ilady. She tried a couple more times but just could not master the correct pronunciation of the birthplace of renaissance art and culture. During her elocution struggles a young couple entered my line of vision, with the man gagging and gasping for air. I made a hesitant move towards him, not sure whether my very limited medical knowledge and skills could be of use when I was barged out of the way by Lady Ilady. She grabbed the chap from the back, did a couple of expert Heimlich moves, which caused him to cough and eventually breathe again. He bowed politely and Matron Heimlich returned triumphantly to her table informing the assembled drinkers that she was a trained paramedic who had just saved someone’s life. Cheers to that, and we were glad to be back in civilisation.
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How to get there:The easiest and quickest way to arrive in the Outer Hebrides from mainland UK is by plane. To access the southern parts, the airport on Barra deserves a special mention as the landing strip is in the form of a beautiful white sand beach. Just watching (let alone being on) a plane coming in to land is an awesome sight. Logan Air provides a link to Glasgow. In the north, the same airline also flies from Edinburgh, Inverness, and Glasgow to Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis. And in the middle of the archipelago is the airstrip at Benbecula which Logan Air connects with Glasgow and Inverness. Bus services and car rental agencies at each airport make for a seamless onward journey.
More conventionally, Caledonian MacBrayne ferries offer several links. If you are bringing your own vehicle, prior booking is absolutely essential. Northern Isles: Ullapool to Stornoway (Isle of Lewis). 2 hours. Uig (Ilse of Skye) to Tarbert (Harris). 1.45 hours. Central Isles: Uig (Isle of Skye) to Lochmaddy (North Uist). 1.45 hoursSouthern Isles: Mallaig to Lochboisdale (South Uist): 3.5 hours.Oban to Castlebay (Barra): 4.75 hours
More conventionally, Caledonian MacBrayne ferries offer several links. If you are bringing your own vehicle, prior booking is absolutely essential. Northern Isles: Ullapool to Stornoway (Isle of Lewis). 2 hours. Uig (Ilse of Skye) to Tarbert (Harris). 1.45 hours. Central Isles: Uig (Isle of Skye) to Lochmaddy (North Uist). 1.45 hoursSouthern Isles: Mallaig to Lochboisdale (South Uist): 3.5 hours.Oban to Castlebay (Barra): 4.75 hours
How to get around: One of the most popular ways to visit the area is to hop from one island to the next along the 185 mile long Hebridean way. Linked by ten causeways and four short ferries, this well maintained route takes in the islands of Lewis & Harris, Berneray, North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist, Eriskay, Barra and Vatersay. Most people travelling across the archipelago do so with their own vehicle. Yet, you will also encounter some hardy cyclists or the odd motorbike. Some people have come with their campervans (or rented one for instance at Outer Hebrides Campervanhire. There is also a bus network that serves the main islands and is synchronised with ferry timetables. And for access to remoter parts not served by public transport, you could rely on several car rental agencies.
Where to stay:The Western Isles are not exactly blessed with a wide range of accommodation options. Although vital to the local economy, tourism is far from being of the mass variety. Private accommodation is therefore a highly practical option. We stayed in two apartments booked through Air BnB: ‘Harry’s Place’ in Balivanich in North Uist; our base for visiting Berneray, North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist, Eriskay, and Barra. When visiting Lewis and Harris we opted for ‘Na h-Eileanan an lar’ in the centre of Stornoway. They both did the trick just nicely.
In case you despise self-catering, there are a couple of boutique hotels which are conveniently spaced apart. From north to south, you might want to check out the following: Hotel Hebrides in Tarbert on Harris, the Polochar Inn in Lochboisdale on South Uist, and the Castlebay Hotel on Barra. If you prefer to stay in one place for longer in order to catch some native vibes, with a pub maybe, a supermarket, and locals going about their daily business, Castlebay on Barra and Talbert on Harris might be your best (and prettiest) options. These places also have hotels (see above), some commercial activity and shops which otherwise are often just dotted around the islands. Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis – population a mighty 8,000 – feels like a proper town though not particularly picture-perfect, but certainly with the most amenities.
Wild Camping is also feasible (for the hardy!). Amongst the many options, you might want to check out the following: On Harris, at the entrance to the small settlement of Luskentyre, the community has provided four parking spaces right above a stunning beach. On Berneray in the hamlet of Baile, you will find a flat grassy stretch near the imaginatively named ‘East Beach’. And on South Uist, head for the north end of Garrynamonie Machair beach which can be accessed by going through the hamlet of Baghasdal.
Highlight #1: The Pub SS Politician, EriskayNot too many public houses in this part of the world, but this one comes with historic significance since just offshore, a cargo ship packed to the rafters with whiskey ran aground in 1941, thereby gifting the locals a much appreciated bounty.
Highlight #2: Beachtime at Garrynamonie Machair White sands glaring in the sun, ideal for those seeking solitude and isolation. On the far south-western edge of South Uist. Follow B888 south towards Eriskay and follow signs to the hamlet of Leth Meadhanagh on a narrow road called S Boisdale. If you pass the church ‘Our Lady of Sorrows’ you have gone too far. Highlight #3: The sandy landing strip of Barra Airport. If you are a fan of toy airports, you have come to the right place. Look out for the baggage deposit on a shelf in what looks like a garden shed. And the scenery and views are not bad either. Beats Heathrow any time.
Highlight #4: The Climb up Heaval on Barra. Up and down in under 30 minutes and you are a contender for the annual race in Castlebay. But less athletic types will also enjoy this steep yet short(ish) climb with truly stupendous views across the southern Hebridean islands of Vatersay, Eriskay and South Uist.
Highlight #5: The Taigh Chearsabhagh Museum and Arts Centre in Lochmaddy, North UistTake the 40-minute ferry from Leverburgh on Harris to Berneray with stupendous views along the way of Mount Clisham (at 799m the highest elevation in the Hebrides) and the Isle of Skye. Continue to the small port of Lochmaddy on North Uist where this charming museum houses a permanent exhibition on Gaelic music and culture, and also showcases the latest work of local artists.
Highlight #6: Beach time at Luskentyre, Harris Head for South Harris and you soon come across this mighty bay with a white sand beach that stretches for miles. On a clear and sunny day the sea shines in emerald-blue colours, not unlike the Caribbean, until you dip your toes in the chilly North Atlantic.
Highlight #7: The Stone Circles at Callavanish, LewisThis is the archaeological highlight of the Hebrides, on a par with England’s Stonehenge. Erected between 2000 and 3000 BC, fifty-four upright stones, often over ten feet tall are organised in the shape of a Celtic cross. The exposed position of the stone circles, on a windswept hill with far-reaching views over a desolate landscape adds to the imposing sense of drama.
Highlight #8: The Postman’s Trail, Harris The miniscule hamlet of Rhenigidale remained disconnected from the outside world by anything other than boat until a single-track road was finally completed in 1990. Before that, a postman dutifully walked this 3 mile hill path three times a week. The trail meanders along the coastline, past sandy bays, and waterfalls with far-reaching views across the archipelago, and on a clear day to the Scottish mainland.
Highlight #9: The Butt of LewisThis is the most northerly spot on the Hebrides. To the north are the Faroe Islands and Iceland; to the west is Greenland and Newfoundland. The Guinness Book of Records deems the Butt of Lewis to be the windiest spot in the UK. Head for the lighthouse and walk along the cliff which offers a great vantage point for spotting nesting seabirds.
Highight #10: The Circular Walk around the island of Great Bernera A short causeway connects this small islet to Harris. Start your circular walk in the hamlet of Breacleit. Signposts will lead you all around a wild and harsh coastline until you reach the beach of Bostadt where you will find the remains of an Iron-Age village which a violent storm exposed in 1993. Make sure to climb down into a life-size reconstruction of these semi-subterranean houses.
Highight #11: Uig Sands, LewisThe road to this far south-western corner of Lewis is worth the trip alone as you drive along eerily quiet moors, dramatic hills, and rock formations. The word Uig comes from the Norse word for ‘bay’, and indeed this is not just a sandy strip along the sea but a vast landscape of sand, green hills, and rugged mountains. Stop by the Uig Sands restaurant for a taste of fresh seafood and local produce with even more fine vistas across this unspoilt terrain.
Highlight #2: Beachtime at Garrynamonie Machair White sands glaring in the sun, ideal for those seeking solitude and isolation. On the far south-western edge of South Uist. Follow B888 south towards Eriskay and follow signs to the hamlet of Leth Meadhanagh on a narrow road called S Boisdale. If you pass the church ‘Our Lady of Sorrows’ you have gone too far. Highlight #3: The sandy landing strip of Barra Airport. If you are a fan of toy airports, you have come to the right place. Look out for the baggage deposit on a shelf in what looks like a garden shed. And the scenery and views are not bad either. Beats Heathrow any time.
Highlight #4: The Climb up Heaval on Barra. Up and down in under 30 minutes and you are a contender for the annual race in Castlebay. But less athletic types will also enjoy this steep yet short(ish) climb with truly stupendous views across the southern Hebridean islands of Vatersay, Eriskay and South Uist.
Highlight #5: The Taigh Chearsabhagh Museum and Arts Centre in Lochmaddy, North UistTake the 40-minute ferry from Leverburgh on Harris to Berneray with stupendous views along the way of Mount Clisham (at 799m the highest elevation in the Hebrides) and the Isle of Skye. Continue to the small port of Lochmaddy on North Uist where this charming museum houses a permanent exhibition on Gaelic music and culture, and also showcases the latest work of local artists.
Highlight #6: Beach time at Luskentyre, Harris Head for South Harris and you soon come across this mighty bay with a white sand beach that stretches for miles. On a clear and sunny day the sea shines in emerald-blue colours, not unlike the Caribbean, until you dip your toes in the chilly North Atlantic.
Highlight #7: The Stone Circles at Callavanish, LewisThis is the archaeological highlight of the Hebrides, on a par with England’s Stonehenge. Erected between 2000 and 3000 BC, fifty-four upright stones, often over ten feet tall are organised in the shape of a Celtic cross. The exposed position of the stone circles, on a windswept hill with far-reaching views over a desolate landscape adds to the imposing sense of drama.
Highlight #8: The Postman’s Trail, Harris The miniscule hamlet of Rhenigidale remained disconnected from the outside world by anything other than boat until a single-track road was finally completed in 1990. Before that, a postman dutifully walked this 3 mile hill path three times a week. The trail meanders along the coastline, past sandy bays, and waterfalls with far-reaching views across the archipelago, and on a clear day to the Scottish mainland.
Highlight #9: The Butt of LewisThis is the most northerly spot on the Hebrides. To the north are the Faroe Islands and Iceland; to the west is Greenland and Newfoundland. The Guinness Book of Records deems the Butt of Lewis to be the windiest spot in the UK. Head for the lighthouse and walk along the cliff which offers a great vantage point for spotting nesting seabirds.
Highight #10: The Circular Walk around the island of Great Bernera A short causeway connects this small islet to Harris. Start your circular walk in the hamlet of Breacleit. Signposts will lead you all around a wild and harsh coastline until you reach the beach of Bostadt where you will find the remains of an Iron-Age village which a violent storm exposed in 1993. Make sure to climb down into a life-size reconstruction of these semi-subterranean houses.
Highight #11: Uig Sands, LewisThe road to this far south-western corner of Lewis is worth the trip alone as you drive along eerily quiet moors, dramatic hills, and rock formations. The word Uig comes from the Norse word for ‘bay’, and indeed this is not just a sandy strip along the sea but a vast landscape of sand, green hills, and rugged mountains. Stop by the Uig Sands restaurant for a taste of fresh seafood and local produce with even more fine vistas across this unspoilt terrain.